Buying a used RV can save you money, but it can also become an expensive mistake if you buy the wrong one.
Over the years, I’ve looked at several used RVs. I walked away from one because the roof had rot. I walked away from another after discovering that its catalytic converter had been stolen and replaced with a straight pipe. That repair might have worked for some buyers, but we wanted the flexibility to travel throughout the United States, including places where a catalytic converter was required. It wasn’t the right RV for us.
I also bought a travel trailer without having it inspected. Later, I found a disconnected carbon monoxide detector, problems with the converter that charges the batteries when the RV is plugged into shore power, and furnace issues. I don’t know whether an inspection would have found every problem, but it likely would have found some of them.
I’m not an RV inspector, and this isn’t a professional inspection guide.
These are some of the things I’d check before buying a used RV, based on what I’ve learned from buying RVs, living in them, maintaining them, and finding problems after the sale.
Some checks are easy to do yourself. Others may lead you to hire a mechanic or an RV inspector before handing over your money. My goal isn’t to help you find a perfect RV. It’s to help you avoid one with problems that could cost you thousands of dollars or make it a poor choice for full-time living.
Before You Even Visit the RV
Before making the trip to look at a used RV, I like to gather as much information as I can.
Start by asking the seller for the year, make, and model. Ask how long they’ve owned it, why they’re selling it, and whether they have maintenance records.
Look at the photos in the listing. Zoom in on the roof, tires, decals, and interior. You may spot signs of water damage, missing equipment, or poor repairs before you see the RV in person.
Before I go, I research the make and model online. Owner forums, Facebook groups, and videos can reveal common problems and help you know what to look for when you arrive.
Finally, decide whether the RV is worth visiting. If the seller won’t answer basic questions, won’t provide more photos, or isn’t willing to let you test the RV’s systems before the sale is final, I’d be cautious. There are reasons why some systems can’t be tested during the first visit, especially if the RV is winterized. Make sure you have a plan to test them before you commit to buying.
A little research before you leave can save you time and help you focus on RVs that deserve a closer look.
Start Outside
Before stepping inside, take a slow walk around the RV. Don’t rush. You can spot many problems from the outside.
Look for signs that the RV has been cared for. A dirty RV isn’t always a problem, but peeling sealant, cracked caulking, damaged trim, or missing access panels may show that maintenance was missed.
Look down the sides of the RV from both ends. Bulges, ripples, or waves in the siding can be signs of delamination, which is often linked to water damage.
Our travel trailer had some delamination. It never leaked, and we never found evidence of water getting inside, so it wasn’t a problem while we owned it. We didn’t notice it when we bought the trailer, though, and an inspection might have pointed it out. It reduced the resale value when we sold it. If we’d known about it before buying, we may have been able to negotiate a lower price.
Check around each window, door, storage compartment, vent, and light fixture. Look for cracked or missing sealant and signs that water may have entered.
If the RV has slide-outs, inspect the seals for tears, gaps, or wear. Look at the outside edges for damage, loose trim, or poor repairs. When you test the RV’s systems later, make sure each slide extends and retracts smoothly.
Take a quick look at the tires for cuts, bulges, or severe cracking. Beyond that, I usually assume I’ll be replacing them and factor that cost into my offer. If the tires turn out to be usable, that’s a bonus.
Look underneath the RV. You aren’t trying to complete a mechanical inspection, but you may spot hanging wires, damaged plumbing, bent frame parts, rust, or signs that something struck the underside.
If something concerns you, take photos and ask questions. It may be a reason to negotiate, hire an inspector, or walk away.
The Roof
If there’s one place I wouldn’t skip, it’s the roof.
One RV I looked at had roof rot. I walked away. Roof repairs can cost a lot, and damage may extend beyond what you can see.
Water damage can become one of the largest repair costs in a used RV. A leak can go unnoticed while it damages the roof structure, walls, insulation, and ceiling.
If it’s safe to do so, climb up and inspect the roof. Look for soft spots. Check around vents, skylights, antennas, air conditioners, and other openings. Look for cracked or missing sealant, damaged roofing material, and signs of repairs.
Fresh sealant doesn’t always mean there is a problem. Roof sealant needs maintenance. What matters is whether the work appears sound and whether there are signs of damage that wasn’t repaired.
If you find something that concerns you, learn how far the damage goes before deciding whether to buy, negotiate, hire an inspector, or walk away.
Inside the RV
Once I’m satisfied with the outside, I go inside.
The first thing I do is stop and look around. Does the RV smell dry? A musty smell can be a sign of water damage or mold. It doesn’t prove there is a serious problem, but it gives you a reason to look closer.
Look at the ceiling, especially around vents, skylights, air conditioners, and the tops of the walls. Water stains, discoloration, or sagging panels can show current or past leaks.
Check the walls and floor. Press in a few places, especially around windows, exterior doors, slide openings, and bathroom corners. Soft spots may show damage that isn’t easy to see.
Open cabinets, wardrobes, and storage areas. Look into the back corners with a flashlight. Water damage may show up inside a cabinet before it becomes clear elsewhere.
Open and close windows, doors, drawers, and cabinet doors. Damage, swelling, or parts that don’t close may point to movement or moisture.
Don’t ignore modifications. Some improve an RV. Others raise questions about the work. If you see homemade wiring, plumbing changes, or structural alterations, ask what was done and why.
If you suspect the RV has been lived in full time, pay extra attention to signs of wear. Full-time use often means more wear on the interior and the RV’s systems.
Before moving on, ask yourself whether the RV gives you confidence that it has been cared for.
Try Every System
A used RV can look good and still have systems that don’t work.
Before buying, I try to operate as many systems as possible. If something can’t be tested during the first visit, I make sure there is a plan to test it before the sale is final.
Don’t rely on being told that something worked the last time the RV was used. Turn it on and see for yourself.
- Furnace
- Air conditioner
- Refrigerator on each available power source
- Water heater
- Water pump
- Each faucet
- Toilet
- Holding tank valves
- Lights
- 120-volt and 12-volt outlets
- Converter and chargerl
- Slide-outs
- Power awning
- Leveling system, if equipped
When we bought our travel trailer, we later found problems with the furnace. I’m not sure an inspection would have found them, but I wish we’d tested it more before buying.
We also found that the converter, which charges the batteries when the RV is plugged into shore power, had a fault indicator light that shouldn’t have been on. We didn’t notice it until after we bought the trailer.
If you’re looking at an RV during freezing weather, don’t expect the plumbing to be ready for testing. Owners winterize RVs to prevent freeze damage, and it may not be practical to de-winterize one for each prospective buyer.
That doesn’t mean you should skip testing the plumbing. Make a plan to test it before the sale is final. You might make an offer that is conditional on the plumbing and water systems working. Once the RV has been de-winterized, test everything before completing the purchase.
The more systems you test before buying, the fewer surprises you’re likely to have once you’re living in the RV.
Check the Safety Equipment
Safety equipment is easy to overlook because it doesn’t add to the RV’s appearance. It can still save your life.
Check that the smoke detector, carbon monoxide detector, propane detector, and fire extinguisher are present. Test the detectors before the sale is final.
When we bought our travel trailer, we later found that the carbon monoxide detector had been disconnected. An inspection likely would have caught it, but we didn’t. It was easy to correct, but it reminded me not to assume safety equipment works because it is there.
If a detector or extinguisher needs replacing, include that cost in your plans and replace it before living in the RV.
When I’d Hire a Mechanic
If I’m buying a motorhome, I’d have a mechanic check the engine, transmission, brakes, steering, and suspension every time.
A mechanic can perform tests beyond what I can see. Another option is to rely on a friend who is a mechanic, but only if they know what to look for in a motorhome chassis.
When I’d Hire an RV Inspector
An RV inspector specializes in the house portion of the RV. I’d hire one if I had doubts about the roof, walls, plumbing, electrical system, or appliances, or if I wanted another set of eyes before buying.
An inspector may find water damage, system faults, or repairs that aren’t obvious during a walk-through. A used RV can involve enough money that the inspection cost may be worth paying.
Reasons I’d Walk Away
Some problems are too large, too costly, or too risky for me.
I walked away from an RV with a rotten roof. Roof repairs can spread into the walls and ceiling, and it can be hard to know the full cost before the work begins.
Air conditioning is also important to me because heat can trigger my multiple sclerosis symptoms. I walked away from one motorhome because the dashboard air conditioning didn’t work.
Later, I bought another motorhome after a mechanic friend thought he could repair its dashboard air conditioning. It turned out to be more complicated than the air conditioning in a car. The repair might have cost thousands of dollars, so we didn’t do it. We managed by running the generator and the coach air conditioner while driving, but I wouldn’t choose that setup again.
I also walked away from a motorhome whose catalytic converter had been stolen and replaced with a straight pipe. That solution may have worked for another buyer, but we wanted the option to travel where a catalytic converter was required.
At the time, we were quoted thousands of dollars to replace it with an original part. We later learned that an aftermarket catalytic converter might have cost only a few hundred dollars. That taught me to understand the problem, how it affects my plans, and what it would cost to fix before deciding.
Other reasons I might walk away include a bent frame, large areas of water damage, problems with the VIN, or a seller who won’t allow needed checks before the sale is final.
Would I Buy This RV?
After checking what I can, I ask myself whether I would buy the RV.
There are four possible outcomes:
- I’d buy it.
- I’d negotiate because I found problems.
- I’d hire a mechanic or RV inspector before deciding.
- I’d walk away.
The goal isn’t to find a perfect RV. It’s to understand what you’re buying and avoid surprises once you’re living in it.
